Tuesday, November 29, 2011

"MWBAA!?"

We went to Thanksgiving Supper with Alice's cousins, up in Owings, South Carolina. Thanksgiving Supper in Owings is a tradition that goes back at least half a century. Usually there's about 25-30 folks.  Cousin Hazel and her family provide the Turkey, Dressing, Gravy, Famous Christmas Rolls, and some other fixin's. The rest of the folks bring a variety of contributions: Potato Salad, Candied Sweet Potatoes, Creamed Corn, Green Beans, maybe a Congealed Salad. It is always a delicious feast. Alice's mom, Mama Lucy, always took a ham, so that’s what we brought this year: a  platter of porcine perfection produced by wrap cooking a Clifty Farms Country Ham. For dessert there is usually cake or cookies, and always, always, Hazel makes Boiled Custard. Always. It is something that she doesn't make often. In fact, nobody that I know of makes it often. Alice makes it several times a year, usually around the Holidays, or when someone has some sort of mouth surgery that makes chewing unpleasant. It is very good: kind of like egg nog without the spices. Very rich, not too sweet, a nice vanilla mellowness.  No booze, but you can add that yourself if you feel the need,  which we don't.
The newest member of the clan is Maggie, Cousin Hazel's first great-grandbaby. She's fourteen months old, and seems to be a fine child, being raised by fine parents. However, through a minor oversight on her parents, she had never had country ham, or the Boiled Custard. Well, that situation has now been rectified. Her dad did not give her the actual hambone to gnaw on, but she finished a substantial portion with enough enthusiasm there is no doubt she is in favor of it. (It's ok, it's ok. There was no fat on it.) After she finished the big slab smallish morsel of ham, it seemed to me she was kind of thirsty. So I offered her some Boiled Custard. It was in a punch cup, and she kind of eyed it suspiciously. She cautiously let me put it up to her mouth, and tilt it so she could get a bit. After a moment, her eyes got big and she snatched the cup out of my hands and with a glug glug glug, it was empty. Then she handed the cup back to me and said "MWBAA!?" Which apparently meant something like "Goodness Gracious, that was mighty fine! Would you please get me another cup? Right Now!" Which of course I did. She followed me around the rest of the night.

Now what makes you think I might exaggerate?






Monday, October 17, 2011

Mama Lucy's Legacy

I knew Mama Lucy for 30 years. She loved to cook, and loved to see folks eat what she cooked.  During the time I knew her she cooked for her husband, her five children, and her five grand-children.  Before I knew her, she apparently cooked for most of southern Greenville County, (a great deal of it in large amounts).  Her children’s friends were always welcome at her table, and from what I hear tell, she and JW did a good bit of entertaining in the 60s and 70s.

After JW (or Wilton as she called him) died 10 years ago, she spent a fair amount of time at our house.  She’d come for a month or three, several times a year, while Alice “tweaked” her medicines and such.  And a fair amount of that time was spent sitting at our kitchen table doing crossword puzzles, looking out the back window at the birds and squirrels, and talking about food.  She didn’t cook too much then, but she still loved to talk about food, and she enjoyed watching cooking shows on TV, and Lord, how she loved to read cookbooks!  She would read cookbooks like most folks read novels.  She loved to get books on different cuisines, but she also loved Southern cooking, and especially Creole/Cajun (lately she had become somewhat enamored with John Besh!)

(A couple of things she did cook in big quantities in the last few years:  She once made me a huge pot of chicken stew and 100 biscuits to take to Lutheran Men.  After that, we’d often tease her to “come help us make a hundred biscuits!” And in 2005, she and her daughter Beth made several coolers full of beef stew to send to Biloxi for Katrina volunteers. She had heard they weren’t getting enough proteins for all the hard work they were doing!)

One of my favorite things was finding a new recipe, telling her about it (many times she’d heard of something similar) and then trying it out on her. Most of the time, she’d love it.  She didn’t particularly like lamb or salmon, so usually those recipes were out, and she very most assuredly did not like rosemary or sage in large quantities, which I do!  I would often tease her about that, saying things like “why don’t we put a couple of tablespoons of sage in this?”  or “You’ll like this Mama Lucy, it’s got loads of rosemary!”  Her answer would many times be “I …. Don’t ….think so, Mr. Philip!”

Here’s just few of the culinary treats Alice and I owe to Mama Lucy:
  • Craig Claiborne’s tomato soup (I thought tomato soup was only from Campbell’s)
  • Baklava (She only did this once, and then talked Alice into it!)
  • Apricot whip
  • Biscuit mix (5lbs of While Lilly Self Rising flour + a small can of Crisco=Voila! You've got biscuit mix! All you have to do is add buttermilk!)
  • Crème puffs
  • Barbecue hash  (which did not involve smoking the pork in any way, shape, or form, but was still wonderfully delicious!)
  • Chicken stew (this absolutely had to be made with hens!)
  • Dressing made without sage or meat (this was total against my German heritage!)
  • Tomato Pie & Candied Sweet Potato (I never knew about these until about 10 years ago!)
  • She was the first person I ever saw cook a Lobster
  • Tomato Aspic & Pressed Chicken & Home-made Mayonnaise (apparently this was de rigueur for bridge club parties in the 60s!


Mama Lucy snuck out on us Friday afternoon. You know the Big Feast that Jesus says awaits us all in heaven? Well, she’s helping make the biscuits for it right now.  She taught me a lot, and I’m going to miss her.

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Locavore Lutherans and St. Peter's Picnic Plate

Over a year ago I saw a post by Bill Smith about Crook's Corner Picnic Plate.  Bill serves his up to folks in the heat of summer. It's all cold, and it's not uncommon for him to sell out every plate available.  I thought it one of the smartest things I've seen in the food & beverage bidness, and ever since then, I've wanted to try it for a Youth Fund Raiser at St. Peter's.  Well, Sunday I got my chance.

For the last 4 years, we've pretty much averaged right at 100 plates served for fundraiser meals served right after church.  We also have a meal before the Wednesday service that's usually about 30-40 people. My plan was to cook enough for 150.  We'd feed about 100 folks and have enough leftovers for Wednesday night.  I also wanted the kids to do a lot of the cooking themselves, since they really seem to love doing it, (and we have a blast with them in the kitchen!) This past Saturday we had about 20 of the Youth in the kitchen preparing the food. They did a great job.  It's always fun teaching them how to make biscuits or slice a watermelon.  They have such enthusiasm! We're very proud of them.

I'm also very proud that most of the menu featured local items, so please forgive me for possibly being the first one to coin the phrase:  Locavore Lutherans!

Buttermilk Fried Chicken Tenders
(Columbia Farms, Saluda County Hickory Hill Buttermilk, Adluh Flour)

Country Ham on Buttermilk Biscuits
(Saluda County Hickory Hill Buttermilk, Adluh Flour, Clifty Farms Ham from Tennessee)

Deviled Eggs
(Kershaw County Eggs, Dukes Mayo, Lexington County Chives)

Hallelujah Potato Salad
(Bell Peppers & Purple Onions from Gilbert SC, Jalapeños from Tommy Stone in Lexington, Kershaw County Eggs)

Home-made Green Tomato Pickles
(The Youth made these a couple of weeks ago with tomatoes from the slopes of Mt. Pisgah, near Waynesville, NC.)

Sliced Tomatoes
(SC State Farmers Market)

Watermelon Wedges
(Barnwell Country)

Chocalate Eclairs
(Kershaw County Eggs, Adluh flour)

Alice made the éclairs in stages throughout last week, and finished them off Saturday morning.  I wrap cooked the hams on Thursday, so all we had to there was slice them up. The only thing we did on Sunday morning was put the biscuits together and plate everything up. The service was over a little before noon.  By 12:25, we were sold out:  153 plates for over $1100.  Whooo Boy!!! The Youth were great! The congregation showed great support, as always!  Thanks folks!!!

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

From the Sea to the Mountains and Home again

We started off the first part of the month with Labor Day at Surfside, continuing our okra endeavors by creating Donald Link's Chicken and Andouille Gumbo.  I actually had some Andouille from Cochon Butcher Shop in the freezer, so it was almost like he was there with us.  Well, not really....  Anyway, it calls for 6 different kinds of pepper, but I cut that back to 4, and it was plenty hot enough!

We found a recipe in a Southern Living for a overnight soaked french toast that is baked.  Lately Alice has been making some artisanal french bread, and it is dense and very crusty. It turned out very well. It's got a moderately gooey praline topping, that I made with bourbon, because we didn't have vanilla.  Hey, September is Bourbon Heritage Month, so that worked out well, don't you think?
Speaking of Bourbon, Arnold Palmer came by, and I introduced him to W.L. Weller. We sat on the porch a while and looked at the Labor Day Weekend crowd on the beach.

The next weekend we went up to Lake Junaluska, near Waynesville. The house we stay at has great porch that looks out over the lake. It's perfect for picking out pecans,  so we wound up making more of Praline French Toast! Rambling up Highway 276 towards Mt. Pisgah, we came accross the local farmers market and scored a good deal on a new(to us) kind of apple.  A Peppin Fall apple is a large apple,  almost but not quiet as tart as a Granny Smith. We also got some fresh mozarella, and some acorn squash. That part of the wold is the world headquarters of  Sunburst Trout, so we brought back a small cooler full of beautiful  fillets.  Although you can get these at a few grocery stores in South Carolina,  its a dollar a pound cheaper up there You really should use a minimalist approach to Sunburst Trout.  Just a little bit of lemon juice & some mild seasoning. It's reminds you very much of salmon!
Last weekend we celebrated Alice's birthday.  Instead of a birthday cake, we had been talking about making a Croquembouche, but you have to use carmel candy for that, and the weather didn't look too promising for candy making.  Being the pragmatists that we are, we* went ahead with the pastry production, but turned them into cream puffs (vanilla & coffee flavored).  They were very good. So good, in fact, Alice is now modifying the recipe into eclairs.  More on that later. We also learned that they freeze very well, but you should NOT try to eat a frozen cream puff.  Really, trust me on this.

*When I say "we", read Alice.